Thursday, October 30, 2008

Let the games begin

Finally I can post about actual climbing rather than endless "virtual-psyche ups". So here's a few pics from the last few days in the Northern Corries. Still having to pinch myself that it's still October. Tuesday the 28th I think we were the only ones doing any climbing, perhaps folk had been put off by the road being closed. We opted for Andromeda IV,4 a fine route on number 2 buttress finishing in rather full on blizzard conditions. Definitely a goggles day although both Jon Winter and I had forgotten ours! Number 3 and 4 buttress (Tues 28th)Number 1 and 2 Buttress (Tues 28th). Andromeda goes directly up the centre of Number 2.Jon on the Crux of Andromeda.
Looking up the grooves of Big Daddy (VII,8 ha, ha!)
The following day, Wednesday 29th there were a couple of parties heading in the Sneachda but we were alone again in Coire an Lochain. I had my eye on the incredible grooves of Number 1 buttress shared by Big Daddy (VII,8) and Daddy Longlegs (VIII,9). Perhaps it was early season wobbles but I managed to first drop my axe and then take a lob battling with a frozen friend and icy crack on the final roof of pitch 1. A brief attempt on the deeply hoared top cracks of Daddy Longlegs ended after only a few feet as my arm locked bent with cramp so I opted for the offwidth finish of Big Daddy. Thankfully easier than it looked. Incredible route but this must be the hardest grade VII in Scotland (it used to be g8iven VIII). Whilst things have warmed up a touch there should be plenty more fun to be had over the weekend and I imagine many other higher areas are also in good nick.
Jon at the top of Pitch 1 of Big Daddy.


Dave said...

I'm off for my first ever winter outing this weekend. Whilst I think I'll probably be leaving those particular routes for another day (har har) the photos have made me even more psyched than I was before!

Toby - Northern Light Blog said...

Hi Ian. Did you take those pics with the G10? Or do you take an SLR with you?

Toby in Finland.

Ian Parnell said...

Yes Toby on the G10. I'll add more comments re that camera soon, but basically the one thing I really confirmed was how easy it is to use in winter. I could switch it on, change ISO, shutter speed and exposure compensation and preview all with mits on