Photo Wise Part 3

One of the things you learn pretty early on with alpine climbing is that shiny gear doesn't make you a good climber. I'm surprised therefore on photography forums with the total obsession with gear. Even photography forums on climbing sites fuss over which camera will transform the poster's pics to the near exclusion of every other aspect of image making.

Last year I had a days shooting with the modern day climbing legend John Dunne at Ilkley. I'd never met John properly and was looking forward to making the most of the privilege of working with him. Imagine my horror when I opened the boot of my car to find my full array of lenses but no actual camera to attach them to. Apologising profusely to John, we rang around mates of his in the vicinity trying to blag a spare camera to save the day, but to no avail. Eventually I bit the bullet heading down the hill to Ilkley town and managed to find a pocket sized compact.

I felt a little as though I'd let John down hanging on an abseil rope waving around a tiny "happy snappy" when John was much more used to pros with multiple bodies weighed down with long lenses. The results however were far from a disappointment - as the magazine used 7 pages of shots including a double page and the front cover. It really went to show that interesting subject matter, nice light and a decent eye come well before how many expensive toys you have.

One of the most pleasing aspects of the magazine article was that I heard that the double page spread (above)had inspired Gaz Parry to go and repeat the route Reservoir Dogs, an E8 that hadn't been climbed for many years. That's when you know a photograph really is successful.

Better than Everest

In 2005 I was lucky enough to stand on top of the Everest. People often assume that this must be the highpoint of my life. In fact most of my other expeditions have been more enriching experiences. But now something has come along that easily tops all that...


Earlier this week Ali and I took part in the daily miracle of new life when Suzanna Eve joined us. Now I really do feel on top of the world.

Photo Wise Part 2

For this week's "story behind the image" I thought I'd talk a little about this shot of Zippy climbing Traverse of the Gods, a VS at Swanage. There's a lot of talk about needing perfect light for the best shots, I don't agree. Great light of course can lead to some really beautiful images but there's alot more to life and especially the climbing life than just beauty. On this day the sky was dull and flat, even more the rock was completely soaked. Usually there'd be no climbing and no photos on a day like this but I'd had a vision of an image I wanted.


It's a bit embarrassing to admit but I sometimes dream of particular pictures I hope I might have a chance to photograph. I've always loved that feeling on seacliffs when the water becomes a real presence. Those big sea days when you're racing the tide and the waves are leaping around like wild animals. In most of the seacliff climbing shots I've taken the sea has remained tame; a mere pretty backdrop.

Luckily for me (unluckily for Zips) on this day the sea had been unleashed and the waves were crashing occasionally over the tops of the cliff. I managed to persuade Zips to give the first pitch a try, got the camera ready and waited for the big breaker. Of course I got as soaked as Zips but when you get one of those images you've been dreaming of its all worth it.

The thing I like best about this shot is that nature is most definately the boss. One of the most cringe-worthy attitudes in climbing is the idea of "conquering the mountain" or in more contemporary parlence "crushing the route"! In reality when a climber's at the top of their game they achieve a balance with nature. Nature however can easily bite back as Zippy found out.

Photo Wise Part 1

I thought it might be interesting to talk a little about my photography so in this occasional group of posts I'll try to explain some of the thinking I've made behind the lens. For the last year or so I've been running a series called "Stomping Grounds" for Climb magazine in which each month a well known climber gives a tour of the local area selecting 7 personal fav routes. Its been my job to try to capture the essense of each of those routes in a single image each. Often I have only had one or two days to capture all 7 routes usually at several different crags across the region. Adding to those complex logistics have been the usual photographer's foes the weather and poor light. But I like being tested and these pressures plus the monthly deadlines have added to the enjoyment I've had in rising to the challenge.

The following three pics of Nick Dixon show a little about the way I've been working. I usually run around like a blue arsed fly trying to get the most out of each climb and not just stick with one view. The route is called Sunburst a stunning E7 arete soaring out of the trees and rhododendrons of Nesscliffe. The first two shots concentrate on the amazing technicality of the climbing plus they also fit the format of a possible cover (space at the top for the magazine header plus strap lines at bottom left).

I chose this first view to emphasise the pure straight lines of Sunburst's arete and to line up the beautiful Rhododendron flowers as a back drop to this equally beautiful move by Nick - with all his weight balanced off his heel level with his head.
The end move of the crux sequence is a dyno. Here its crucial to see the concentration and emotion of the climber so I moved so I could see Nick's face and most importantly eyes. The image however that I felt worked best was this one...


I'm always looking for shots I've not seen before. Here the composition gives enough of the technical nature of the route with Nick perched on the arete his right leg flagging in the air but more importantly (considering that the article is more about the climbs than the climber) it brings out the incredible geometry and scale of Nesscliffe. Huge right angled grooves and aretes, a full rope length in height - shooting from this angle felt like swinging around in the tops of the tallest trees of a rainforest canopy and I think captured the granduer of one of the UK's most striking single pitch routes.

Patagonia Winter Film wins more awards

A view of Fitzroy from our bergshrund cave below Cerro Standhart

The film Andy Kirkpatrick and I produced along with Alastair Lee has now won four different film festival awards. The Best Adventure Film, and the Peoples Choice at Kendal, the Best Mountaineering Film at Vancouver and now Best Film of the Festival at the 5 Point Festival held in Carbondale in America. At the 5 Point Festival we even got a special mention from Yvon Chouinard saying it was one of the best climbing films he'd seen! Its feedback like that that makes all the fumbling with frozen fingers to get the camera out even when we were having quite a few "challenging moments" climbing, seem worthwhile.

If you haven't seen the film yet its part of "Psyche" Alastair Lee trilogy of films including a profile of Steve Mclure and a film following Dave Birkett up a stunning first ascent on Skye. You can watch snipits and order it from http://www.posingproductions.com/homepage.php

Forthcoming lecture - Abergavenny

10 days up a route on the Dru in winter

I've not been lecturing for a little while so I'm pretty excited for this coming Saturday (24th May) when I will be doing a lecture at the Borough Theatre in Abergavenny at 7.30pm (Tel 01873850805)

The event is hosted by the Abergavenny Camera Club so it will be a little different than my usual show with more of a concentration on what goes on to get images like the one above. Their web link is: http://www.abergavennycameraclub.org.uk/Club_News/Entries/2008/5/24_Ian_Parnell_-_High_Focus.html)

Back for one last big one

Raphael on the first crux of Mr Hulot.

With our stay almost over we returned for one last route at the superb Stanley Headwall, our fifth route here of the trip. Together with Mr Stanley himself, Raphael Slawinski we climbed "The Day After Les Vacances de Monsieur Hulot." (M7 WI6). I had read alot about this route and its one I particularly wanted to climb. Raphael made the first free ascent of this 10 years ago and its had hardly any repeats since. The main reason is that its on trad gear.

Nick squirming in the snow up a Scottish 7 chimney on pitch 3

The crux is a slightly leaning smooth corner climbed on tiny slopey hooks and minimal feet. After all the swinging around on steep overhangs particularly at Haffner I felt much more at home here reminding me of some of the things we climb in Scotland. Its interesting to note particularly following recent world wide web interest in modern Scottish mixed climbing how some of these routes would rate in Scottish terms. So my guesses are as follows:

French Reality (guide grade V 5.8 WI6+) M6 WI6 = Scottish VII,7
Nightmare on Wolf Street (guide V M7+ WI6+) M8? WI6+ = IX,9
Drama Queen (guide M7 WI6) M7 WI6 = VIII,8
Terminator (T2 start) (guide M7 WI6+) M7 r/x WI5+ = IX,8
Curtain Call (guide WI6) WI6 = VII,7
Suffer Machine (guide M7 WI5) M7 r WI5 = VIII,9
'Monsieur Hulot (guide M7 WI6) M7 WI6 = VIII,9

One of the interesting things is these are all old hat in terms of the cutting edge. Raphael's recent Victoria's Secret also at Stanley is probably M9, trad and climbed ground up and I guess would rate Scottish grade X. All good inspiration to see what we can do next year in Scotland.

Final holiday snap