Chee Tor Ch'i

Managed to get out mid week for a cheeky climb. The very wonderful Chee Tor Girdle.I love the slightly lost world atmosphere of Cheedale, you half expect to see a stray Diplodocus wandering down the river.
The route itself is well worth it's 3 stars, in fact it's one of the better VSs I've done
Although the 5 pitches especially the last two might have novice VS leaders (and followers) racks in a twist.

Thanks

A couple of thanks in this post. Firstly to everyone who sponsored me in the Manchester 10k, I think in total we managed to raise £300 for the Make a Wish Charity (the exact amount I'm not sure yet as some donations got posted direct).

Secondly thanks to everyone who came to see Ranulph Fiennes interviewed by me at Buxton Opera House. This was Ran and my first attempt at this format and we were pleased with how it went. The main reason it was a success was down to the audience who were on fine form - it makes it so much easier up on stage when you know that everyone listening are up for a good night. We are hoping to see if we can tour this show - perhaps next year? I would be interested if anyone reading was there if you have any feedback - what worked and what could be improved. Also if you would like to see the show in your area let me know if you have a big theatre (700 plus seater).

London Lecture

Next Thursday, the 26th May, I'm doing a show at the Castle Climbing Centre in London. As well as talking about some of my personal adventures in the Himalaya, Scotland and some of the looser cliffs in England, I'll talk a bit about climbing the Eiger with Sir Ranulph Fiennes and El Cap with Major Phil Packer who couldn't use his legs to climb. I'll also be offering a few thoughts and tips on photography in the mountains. Here's a link for more information http://www.castle-climbing.co.uk/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=297&Itemid=1

Just to wet the appetite here's a few pics:
Annpurna III, Nepal
Storr on SkyeDover Chalk CliffsPatagonia

Rare and wonderful

Following my route on the Plan almost 2 months ago (?) I developed a nerve pain in my left hand - plunger's palm perhaps? from so much plodding through deep snow on the midi plan traverse. As a result I haven't been able to climb since then. That is until this Wednesday when Jon and I made the lengthy day trip to Lleyn Penninsula to climb the 9 pitch 'mountain by the sea' Avernus. It gets the grade HVS 4c but mild XS might be more appropriate as it's a 50/50 mix of rock and veg, with much of the veg being 80+ degrees. Luckily I like this kind of stuff and it was a fun day out. Although I would caution anyone who might be tempted that it's quite far from your normal HVS. The technically harder climbing has good pro and excellent sound rock but for me the cruxes were the first main pitch (i.e. pitch 2 in North Wales Rock) and the last - both have no technical grade but both it would be easy to have a nasty accident on. still if your heads in gear a fine adventurous outing.Jon approaching the mountain by the seaAvernus takes the skyline buttressPitch 3 4b, the sea campion pitchpitch 4 4c the bluebell pitchdescending down through the quarry in the drizzle to the metropolis of Trefor

The old quarry 'visitors centre'

Why run?

Since my brief trip to the Alps a month or so ago I've been unable to climb due to nerve pain in my left hand. I think it's been brought on by the battering it got holding the hammer head of my axe for 10 hours across the Midi-Plan Traverse so I'm christening it 'plunger's palm'

In the mean time I've been running even more than ever. Running is one of those activities that divides opinion in a love-hate way, so I thought I'd explain a little of why I'm I love it so much.

The first and main reason for me is that it is that it keeps me sane - running is a guaranteed safety valve for surviving modern life. I'm sure there is a complex physiological reason involving various chemicals being released in the brain as to why it works, but the simple act of heading out for even a short run seems to de-clutter the mind. I suspect the rhythm of running helps and of course the fact that you can concentrate on one thing without having to be distracted by the bleeps and buzzes of the daily grind.
Secondly there's the health benefits - my family has a history of genetic heart disease with many of my relatives dying from heart attacks, so anything I can do to delay that is obviously great. You could argue there are health problems from running too - my knees definitely aren't wild about my return to running and most of my mates have opted for road biking as their middle aged fitness escape route. However biking doesn't have that.......direct connection with the land. There is something magical about moving on foot at 'speed' over the land. I'm sure it's a deep rooted memory of the great travels our ancient ancestors must have undertaken. But (particularly as you get fitter) naturally right about sweeping across interesting terrain. As well as the rhythms and contours of the land there's the simple little discoveries I come across my early morning runs. I'm lucky enough to have my local wood within a couple of minutes from my front door. 6.30 runs have brought the glittering crystals of snow highlighted in my head torch, the echoes of woodpeckers, racing squirrels and Spring's carpets of wild garlic and bluebells.

I think most impotantly running more than any other activity gives me a sense of 'freedom' A sensation of release, limitless possibilities and a reminder of the simple joy of being alive.

More Alps

A few more pics here from The West face of the Plan. The line of the route.
Me setting off the first pitch - a rather savage crack with some full blown laybacking and minimal feet - luckily its only about 15ft long, nevertheless I spent longer recovering at its top with hot aches than actually climbing it!

Since getting back from Chamonix I've been getting stuck into my running, managing 6 runs this week. I'm never going to be a brilliant runner, but I love the feeling of freedom it gives. At the moment it's much more manageable time-wise than climbing, plus I've got what feels like tendon pain in my left palm from all the plunging into unconsolidated snow heading through the night back to the midi. Still I've a chance to head back to the Alps in a couple of weeks - an even slimmer window this time but fingers crossed I can sneek in another quick route, and the running might pay off and I won't be limping along the snow-plodding bits so much.

West Face Couloir of the Plan

I've been able to escape this past 5 days to the Alps and was hoping against hope that somehow I could get a route done to restore a bit of sanity having missed out on Scotland this season. Luck was on my side turning up trumps with the weather - grand beau temps, partners Steve Su and John Bracey, and a generous host in Zoe. The route was one I've been wanting to do ever since Nick Bullock and Andy Houseman repeated it free a few years ago - The West face couloir on the Plan. The only thing that didn't go perfectly was the descent/ascent - revering the Midi-Plan traverse to our sleeping bags stashed at the Midi Station. This ended up taking me about 10 hours through the night - almost as long as the route - arriving at 8am!

Still it was worth it - here's a few pics.

Chamonix from the hut the night before.My partners Steve and Jon.Jon leading one of many entertaining pitches through some amazing architecture.Steve on one of the cruxes, some thin ice, getting thinner as the winter season draws to an end.

Almost at the top, but we now need to get over there to the Midi - easier said than done.