Winter Training and UKC Gallery

A few posts back a friend of mine, lets call him the Aberdonian Adonis, posted about a winter training session he'd tried influenced by the winter training beast Stevie Haston. Adonis had managed 267 ice axe pull ups in an hour chasing a rumoured 2000 by Stevie. Inspired I tried a little session last night which I think is perfect for those like myself at the moment with very little spare time and adaptable for many levels of fitness.

Rather than an hour I went for 30mins (I didn't want to write off my season before its even started yet). Every minute, "on the hour", do a set amount of pull ups (between 2 and 6). This first session I did 3. Now doing 3 ice axe pull ups seems pathetic on its own right but by the end of the 30 minutes I'd done 90 pull ups, and if you can build up to doing 6 pull ups on the minute that's going to be 180 in 30 mins - a respectable tally for even grade IX monsters. If you find yourself doing more than 6 then you'd probably want to add a weight belt/vest. I think this session works well in that it replicates what you might expect in Scotland where you'll often get a tough physical section for maybe 10ft, followed by a decent rest. Having to do each set on the minute gets surprisingly tough with the last 10 minutes seemingly like a battle against a racing clock.

Also added yesterday is a gallery of winter shots on UKC http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=2235

In print and in the shops

After a lengthy gestation period Neil Gresham and my book is finally out. Winter Climbing + is published by Rockfax and offers fresh contemporary info on all aspects of winter climbing from Scottish mixed, to Continental ice through to the latest modern "m-style" drytooling techniques.

Theres more info here including a free downloadable chapter http://www.rockfax.com/publications/books/item.php?id=146

Let the games begin

Finally I can post about actual climbing rather than endless "virtual-psyche ups". So here's a few pics from the last few days in the Northern Corries. Still having to pinch myself that it's still October. Tuesday the 28th I think we were the only ones doing any climbing, perhaps folk had been put off by the road being closed. We opted for Andromeda IV,4 a fine route on number 2 buttress finishing in rather full on blizzard conditions. Definitely a goggles day although both Jon Winter and I had forgotten ours! Number 3 and 4 buttress (Tues 28th)Number 1 and 2 Buttress (Tues 28th). Andromeda goes directly up the centre of Number 2.Jon on the Crux of Andromeda.

Looking up the grooves of Big Daddy (VII,8 ha, ha!)
The following day, Wednesday 29th there were a couple of parties heading in the Sneachda but we were alone again in Coire an Lochain. I had my eye on the incredible grooves of Number 1 buttress shared by Big Daddy (VII,8) and Daddy Longlegs (VIII,9). Perhaps it was early season wobbles but I managed to first drop my axe and then take a lob battling with a frozen friend and icy crack on the final roof of pitch 1. A brief attempt on the deeply hoared top cracks of Daddy Longlegs ended after only a few feet as my arm locked bent with cramp so I opted for the offwidth finish of Big Daddy. Thankfully easier than it looked. Incredible route but this must be the hardest grade VII in Scotland (it used to be g8iven VIII). Whilst things have warmed up a touch there should be plenty more fun to be had over the weekend and I imagine many other higher areas are also in good nick.
Jon at the top of Pitch 1 of Big Daddy.

Winter is coming part 1

It's about this time of year that climbers like myself develop a manic gleam in the eye, start fidgeting with ice axes and files, and dust off our SMC guides. Yes winter is on its way. In fact Ive heard that some have already got their first routes in. Unfortunately I won't be able to head up for at least another month or two but to help us all getting psyched here's a few pics. I'll make this a bit of a series this month to get us in the mood.
What a great climb Savage Slit V,6 in the Northern Corries is. It's popular to dismiss the area just because its popular with novices but it's one of my favourites with some of the best technical climbing about. This shot shows Jon Winter "having a meltdown" in heavily rimmed conditions.Andy Benson on Central Buttress VII,8 at Stob Coire Nan Lochan in Glen Coe. Again a fantastic collection of technical test-pieces across the grades. Really hoping to head back here a few times this season. We did this particular route with Garth's direct start called Starting Blocks which made a particularly sustained route defining the upper limits of grade VII.
What could be better? The end of another stellar day on the Ben. Fingers crossed we'll have lots like this, this winter.