Wednesday, April 9, 2008

Drama Queens

One Drama Queen expressing himself beneath the final pitch of insanity

After a brief attempt to climb the classic alpine route Andromeda Strain (we ran away after 20 minutes of the walk in - lots of snow = avalanches = unhappy holiday) we returned for more Stanley Headwall madness. This time a 4 pitch route called Drama Queen put up only a couple of years ago. The first half involved lots of digging and thrutching....

The very Scottish first half

.....the second half had some amazing ice features.....
The very unscottish second half - a pitch of overhanging "funky mushrooms" with the twin icicles of the final pitch hanging above.

....and the final pitch was just insane. rotting overhanging mixed climbing (think Lleyn with bolt protection) topped by a huge twisted icicle. Unfortunately it was my lead and I lived up to the routes name - having a bit of a meltdown.

500ft of exposure on the final steep ice

Me having one of many "moments" on the final pitch

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