The art of suffering is one of my favourite articles describing the "joys" of alpine style high altitude climbing written by the Polish climber Voytek Kurtyka. Well there's not much high altitude action in Canada, infact with the weather we've been having not much mountain action full stop but that doesn't mean we can't still have our own fair share of suffering. So we headed back to Stanley headwall again and the classic mixed route Suffer Machine (180m, M7 WI5). After the big dumps of snow recently there was much wallowing on the approach (see Nick above).I then tried Teddy Bears Picnic the direct start, finding several bolts either missing or with their hangers fallen off. After pulling a big block off we left that as a dead route and headed up the original start. I'd climbed this the last time I visited Canada with local Raphael Slawinski, it was nice this time to get the route clean after I'd flailed about a bit with Raphael.
Above that were 3 very long pitches of sometimes hard and brittle but always entertaining ice.
Which enabled the full quota of suffering to be enjoyed by all.