Thursday, March 29, 2012

The Loneliness of the Long Distance Bullers

Someone remind me which month it is! Yesterday had a superb outing to the seaside when Jon and I made the long drive to the Lleyn. Jon suggested the classic Golden wall link up at Dorys which sounded good but I fancied something a bit less normal. I'd always been attracted by the description for Pared Mawr in the guide 'the rock is particularly unsound, the worst (or best according to your bent) in the guide.' The route 'The Loneliness of the Long Distance Bullers' HVS 5a also intrigued with it's unique write-up 'Start in the middle of the crag, at the most obvious of features. Probably climbed before by sheep, birds, etc. The relationship of this route to the crag may change with time, with blocks turning into boulders on the beach etc. Wedge up to the overhang, possible belay in poor weather. Swarm over the overhang and exit through a cornice of rock to the top' - Irresistible!
The Line
The Ivy
The loneliness
The view
The next crag - Dorys

After that fun we went to Dorys, where I failed on the planned start up Knowing Her, the back up start up Vroom 23 and then finally succeeded on The Faltering Hand HVS 5a which we climbed to half height, before traversing...
Fascinating Witches HVS 5a
...and finishing up Knowing Her E2 5b and improvising a belay on top.
Lleyn we love you.

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